Arts of Kashmir A viewpoint

By Dinesh K Kapila 

This thought today morning flows from what my colleague Mrs Suparna Tandon posted on appreciating and valuing the vibrant traditional arts. These crafts are essentially us and represent where we come from. Written around 2016. 

In Kashmir I find a similar situation. The craft of Papier Mache is on the decline, perhaps irreversibly. As per businessmen in the line, barely 40 to 60 skilled artisans are left now. The wood carving and engraving craft seems to be going the same way but it can still revive as per them. As regards Carpets, the craft of weaving woolen carpets is just about finished and it's the craft of weaving silk carpets only which survives thanks to exports. The handloom craft of pashmina shawls is again impacted by the powerloom trade selling similar products at lower prices. The copper inlay work is also just about surviving. Embroidery work, delicate and an art by itself is also facing problems.
There are many factors which go into it. Changing trends need to be incorporated and designs. Artisans have health issues due to long working hours bent over their craft, specially the eyes get affected in delicate crafts. This keeps the youth away. Even in families traditionally engaged in this art. The low wages (if artisans are attached to businesses), low pricing (in terms of returns) and rising wages of unskilled Labour have turned youth away though I hate to compare it as such. If an artisan earns Rs 6000 to Rs 7000 after say three months of delicate embroidery work, well many of them just do not discern value in it anymore.

The carpets are a delight, specially the handloom ones, be it woolen or silk. They are master pieces of arts at times. But we still need to improve upon them and add a more diverse element in the weaves and pattern. But it naturally comes with a cost. The upmarket lot goes for exports to Europe of which Germany is a major buyer, USA and the Middle East.  I have seen silk carpets priced for a few lakhs and which limits purchasing power but they certainly make one appreciate the sheer skill and application of the artisan. GI Indicators will certainly be a help.    
Mainly, to me it's the issue of pricing. We have to value these traditional crafts too and their art. Value, developing a taste for the finer aspects of life and culture and respect for the time and skill invested by the artisan needs to be factored into our decision to buy and bargain a piece. The credit flow from Banks is also a concern but that would require maybe branches specializing in understanding the trade but then it's equally true that banks would pursue any craft which generates a surplus.
The businessmen say they cannot pay beyond a limit as the holding cost is high given that demand is never consistent or assured. This aspect does seem reasonable but how do we build a pipeline of consistent demand. Demand can only evolve if rising incomes are there, people value the crafts, the crafts connect with the customers and resonate within them and pricing reflects the balance of commerce and taste.
I find people note the delicate embroidery on cushions in showrooms but refrain from paying Rs 1100 a piece. A small delicate papier mache box goes for Rs 3000 onwards as does the wooden engraving. Silk carpets start really from a lakh plus.
The Government and INTACH do their bit by way of training, reskilling, workshops and holding exhibitions. There is talk of certification and Geographical Indicators for products such as Pashmina Shawls but I am yet to see a ground level impact. Then our vast nation has an immense array of crafts, all focused on the same set of customers ~ the rising middle class which is still unable to value and comprehend what the crafts represent. Until and unless this evolves, I am afraid the crafts or rather the artisans will mainly struggle. Exports may be a way out but not for all products and require backing of fine advertising. And lastly as in life, so in the crafts, some crafts are bound to die out in due course. Maybe we ought to just accept that.

Affordability and tastes of consumers are other aspects. The arts and handloom have always required a taste for them and a socio economic class which can afford them. The product deserves its value and respect. We have to develop economically more for that to happen.  This applies not only to the artisans and their products here but in all parts of India.  Progress and prosperity generates taste and buying power. 
This is my thought as triggered off today. Good Morning and have a nice day.
Dinesh K Kapila